The universe connected my old-school curiosities and modern ones alike to create some quite impeccable timing this week. I listened to Surf Splendor’s David Scales talk to long-time surf journalist and master of poetic surf riff, Matt George. My time with surfing has come after the time of magazines, and so, I now had a familiar name with little to no info surrounding it on the brain, and that motivated (or gave me the excuse) to scour Matt Warshaw’s Encyclopedia of Surf. Which, as it does, led in twenty different directions. 1 hour of reading EOS is similar to 1 hour of walking through the back alleys of Venice mapless (no, not Venice Beach, barns!)— lost but entranced in history and beauty. I always enjoy where I end up (assuming I don’t end up in a canal). Anyway, not only did I read for an hour, but I also found myself settling in with some popcorn to watch In God’s Hands.
While I won’t get into critiquing the contents of the film, as it’s long in the past and I’m no film critic, there are still some interestingly topical sentiments and moments that just so happened to come full circle a day later. I will definitely explain.
The opening scene focuses on a young, musing Shane Dorian sitting face-to-face with another passenger on a train as they hypnotically glide down the California coast. She identifies him as a surfer immediately. He wasn’t wearing puka shells, nor did he have on Oakleys or boardshorts. He was stoically gazing out the window in deep thought. Apparently, this air of mysticism powered the neon, “I’m a-surfer” sign glowing on his forehead. Was Matt George making a connection between surfing and philosophy — is he implying that surfers are more spiritually connected and can be identified by this quality? I dunno’, and no comment.
“What would you say if I told you that there is a wave out there, and by the time it hits this little island off of Mexico, it’s going to be massive, and all I can think about is riding it.” Shane’s character says to the beautiful blonde in front of him, pausing after each sentence for poetic effect.
The movie is essentially this for an hour and a half, and to sum it up in a short amount of time — it is a movie about three friends on a journey of riding waves and maintaining purity, in an ever-changing surf world. Shane wants to surf the biggest waves possible, by whatever means, but his older friend Mickey, former number two in the world — played by Matt George — believes that big waves shouldn’t be surfed any way possible, they should be paddled into. As jet skiing and tow ins were taking over the big wave scene, Mickey wanted to maintain the purity of old school surfing.
While quite a dreamy interpretation of the act of surfing (again, not critiquing) it holds some truth in today’s surfing ethos, especially with Shane. Maybe he learned a thing or two from filming this movie.
I recently listened to Shane talk to Joe Rogan on the Joe Rogan Experience. Is it a coincidence that he appeared on this podcast the day after I watched his film? only the universe knows. It was interesting though. As hyperbolic as Shane’s character is in In God’s Hands, it was astonishing to find out that it was only a slight dramatization of who he actually is. I may be really stretching here; it could be a desperate attempt to make a connection between the two Shanes, but maybe not. On the podcast, Joe and Shane talk for a large portion of the show about hunting. Specifically bow hunting and how, in some ways, rifle hunting can be unethical. I couldn’t help but question whether or not Mickey’s voice was ringing in Shane’s ears during the podcast, lamenting that bow hunting puts hunters on more even terms with deer, much as paddling does with giant waves. And that the rifle and the jet ski are products of an ungrateful, hedonistic world that exploits resources rather than working to connect with them.
I like it, and now I like the film more. It’s fun to think that the heroes of our sport are connected with what they are doing on a cosmic level. That they aren’t just doing it for game — that they’re not just colonial hunters killing hundreds of buffalo in Dances with Wolves. Those buffalo’s deaths didn’t serve a purpose. I think we need a prequel of In God’s Hands, with Shane’s great, great grandfather cruising bareback on a trusty steed, hunting buffalo with bow in hand and honor in heart.
— Barney Beadette
Worried about what vacations will look like with your significant other while surfing’s on the noggin, check out: Do Vacations Always Have to be About Surfing?